Rooted and Mobile: The World of Natural Dyes
Faculty Team: Heeryoon Shin, Beka Goedde, Simeen Sattar and Thena Tak
This interdisciplinary course explores the history, science, and practice of natural dyes and their relationship to land and mobility. Before the development of synthetic dyes in the second half of the nineteenth century, natural dyestuffs were cultivated, traded, and used across the world not only as highly coveted commodities, but also as sources of scientific knowledge, inspiration for creativity, and social and cultural identities. At once the product of local land and long-distance transactions, natural dyes help us navigate and rethink the boundaries and connections between local and global, indigenous and foreign, and permanent and transitory. Drawing upon dye plants currently growing in and around the Bard campus, including indigo, madder, sumac, goldenrod, safflower, and marigold, we will examine how natural dyes initiated cultural transformations, scientific developments, and human interactions with the natural world in their rooted and mobile states. A special emphasis will be placed on the historical indigenous use of land and native dye plants in the Hudson Valley area in collaboration with Bard Farm and Bard Community Garden, and partially supported by the Rethinking Place Initiative.
Art History: This module will examine the material, cultural, and social history of natural dyes and their use in textiles and painting from the early modern period to the present. The practice of dyeing is deeply tied to local natural environment, materials, and knowledge, yet it also created a desirable global commodity that reshaped visual and sensory culture, social relationships, and the textile industry and economy across the world. We will use specific case studies drawn from Asia, Africa, and the Americas to explore cross-cultural interactions, trade and circulation, ecological impact, and colonialism and labor histories. We will end by examining the development of chemical dyes and new theories of color in the late nineteenth century and its ongoing effect on local communities, the textile industry, and environment.
Studio Arts: Dyeing with natural dyes from Bard campus is the studio practice of this common course. In late summer and early fall until the first frost in October, we harvest dye plants and mordants from the Bard Farm, Community Garden and from around our campus, to use as fresh colorants to dye cotton fabric and paper. In November and December, we work with preserved and dried plant matter. In 2023, Bard’s Dye Garden at the two sites on campus was funded by the Rethinking Place initiative at Bard as a research site for native and non-native plants, and our research is ongoing with a collaborator from the Stockbridge-Munsee community. The application of plant dye on fabric and paper is known to artists and practitioners as generally fugitive. In our practice, we consider separable the concepts of value from longevity and lightfastness. We scour, mordant and introduce tannins to our fabric and paper. We also paint, stencil and stamp clay resist onto our fabric. We dye with our plants, such as indigo, madder, sumac, goldenrod, yarrow, and blood root, and several others which we have grown from seed or propagated on campus since 2021. We study the practice of foraging. We overdye our work for further color complexity, modify and shift color with iron, and paint directly to fabric using a mordant with a thickened solution of dye.
Architecture: Whether through intentional trade and commerce, transportation of happenstance, or aesthetic admiration, plants have a long history of spatial flows that are in direct relation to how humans have moved and journeyed around the planet. This course will look at these spatial stories of plants and their relationships to land, more-than-humans, and humans through time and place.With a selection of plants to guide the process, students will first be asked to research about a given plant and its spatial tracings both locally and globally. From there, students will make ‘maps’ of these spatial stories using architectural methods of diagramming, collage, and orthogonal drawing. Mapping as a primarily colonial practice will be reconsidered through the lens of indigenous ways of being and thinking. In this way, space, scale, time, and material may become more elastic in their representations and entanglements with one another.
Science: Dyes, fibers, and their mutual interactions are considered at the molecular level. This microscopic view accounts for the different affinities of dyes for fibers and the role of mordants in binding dyes to fibers. Dyes in paint pigments are also discussed. Lectures alternate with laboratory work: making synthetic indigo, investigating the effect of fiber type and mordants on the colors produced by madder, and making madder lake pigment and paint.